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ZURICH
At this point Lyon is behind us and we are travelling at speeds over 300kms per/hr to Mulhouse-Ville on a TGV Lyria. All going to plan allowing for train changes our ETA into Zurich will be around 2.30pm. We travel through Mulhouse-Ville in France near the Switzerland/Germany border where we change trains again to catch the ICE (Intercity) to Basel. Then in Basel northern Switzerland, we have to wait a further 2½ hours for a connection. This time on the Swiss railway system called the SBB.
It might be worth mentioning a minor detail and perhaps one of our most common gripes about travelling on the European railways and catching connecting trains to other destinations. And that was:-If you had to disembark at a ‘BIG’ city Central station – most likely you would have to embark on another platform. Sometimes these stations would have up to 30 platforms or more in major capital cities…and sometimes interlinked with the Metro system.
Our biggest and loudest whinge (and groan or worse when we had to change platforms) was to haul our 20kg + plus personal baggage across to another platform at stations with NO escalators or elevators. Many times we came to stairs that seemed to go forever into the bowels of the underground or up into the station plazas packed with hundreds of people. At times Elevators and Escalators were “Out of Order”. That was when we would stop in our tracks and look at the stairs, loaded up with our luggage ….and you could hear each of us swearing under our breath….only words that could be compared to those used by the likes of Billy Connolly, Eddie Murphy, and Kevin “Bloody” Wilson – all combined. In those instances the swearing wasn’t spoken with a French, Spanish or German accent – it would be in a clear, loud good ol’ Aussie accent!!!
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| Our worldly possessions for 8 months - 20kgs each |
Thankfully though, we managed a Trifecta at Basel SBB Bahnhof.
(1) Our connecting train was leaving from the same platform we had arrived on
(2) there were Escalators, and;
(3) there were Elevators. YESSSS!! and let’s add an extra one for the Quadrella!
(4) The station, has a beautiful historic interior and exterior in its original condition and on the outside, engraved in the sandstone blocks was the familiar UNESCO logo.
And on this occasion rather than drag our baggage around, TJ and I took turns to wander off, ride the escalator or elevator (smiling) and admire the grandeur of Basel station at our own pace until our train arrived. So the wait for the ICE (Intercity) train was made even the more pleasant in the interim.
The stairs issues aside, we very much came to enjoy the leisurely train travel in Europe. We met a lot of interesting people, compared travel experiences, heard many great stories and would exchange our “must see and to-do” lists in different cities. We were making the most of this life-changing experience and as we would come to find out later on our adventure, European stations and railways are a breeze compared to riding the railways in Asia and China.
We were still worried about one big dilemma since making our first train booking back in Paris on 20 June! We couldn’t get a connection between Venice and Munich !!! and we were starting to stress about it. With all our best efforts to make on-line bookings this was the one big noticeable, problematic gap. Not only was this an issue for us but also for railway staff who either couldn’t or wouldn’t book our reservations. Here we were thinking about the “Domino effect”. A double whammy “Dominos Effect” actually, meaning.....
1. If this booking doesn’t work out then all our other train and accommodation bookings through Italy and Germany will fall over and we would have to sequentially change each one. Or even worse - not being able to get to Nancy, France on the 5th September. A special date and place with a lot of special meaning for us.
2. Our travel plans would look like a dropped-on-the-ground “Dominos” Double Supreme Pizza with Anchovies and extra Olives…..and as much as you tried there was no way you could get it back to its original form.
If we couldn’t get that reservation, then all our advance plans would be stuffed. Our hopes of getting a Venice / Munich reservation were laying with Zurich HB (Hauptbahnhof) staff that would come to our rescue!! Besides this station is the largest and busiest in the Switzerland.
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| Zurich HB |
Up to this point we were travelling rather freely between countries in Europe however, this was the first time our Passports were checked by Border Security. It clicked – Switzerland is not part of the European Union (EU) and their currency and trade is still in Swiss Francs. The money conversion is much the same as the Australian Dollar so it was easy to get a sense of the cost of goods and services.
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| Swiss guards checking passports |
It wasn’t long before we knew we had crossed the border - it was that obvious – the style of houses had changed dramatically to cute chalets surrounded by the greenest country side. As the train approached Zurich, the views changed to industrial, chemical, biotech, pharmaceutical (Novartis and Roche), Telecommunications (swisscom) and commercial. We were already in awe.
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| Swiss Chalets |
Our stay in Zurich for the first couple of days would be with Glen and Stephanie in the suburb called Seebach – about a 10-15 minute tram ride from the city centre. For the other days we’d be based in the centre of Zurich at the Alexandra Guesthouse, close to Limmatquai the heart of the Old Town, shopping area, eateries and bars, and the lake. More importantly it was close to the Zurich HB (Hauptbahnhof).
We chose this location for its proximity to all modes of transport ie. trains, buses, trams and ferries that zigzag across the Zürichsee and the Limmat River and being summer time is where most of the action is.
With a few hours to spare before Glen and Stefanie would be home from work we hit the Tourism Information Office at the HB to gather local maps, transport schedules and other useful information. This is where we purchased a ZVV – The Zurich Pass which offers free transportation on all modes of travel around Zurich, free entrance into specified museums and other discounts for Souvenirs, restaurants and the like. “The cost” you ask? A 72 hour (4 day) pass is 40 Swiss Francs – for unlimited travel, scenic river and rail rides, hop on-hop off anywhere on the scheduled stops. At a bargain $10 bucks a day - tomorrow we hit the ground running!!
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| Limmatquai on Lake Zurich |
Zurich HB (Hauptbahnhof) was incredible and bustling, people going about their business everywhere. The London Olympics had just finished on the 12th August which could account for why there were so many travellers at the station – many heading to other European destinations after London.
But here, under the one roof Zurich HB contains 3 levels of shops, food courts, cafes, bakeries (with all those Yum pastries), supermarkets, telephones, Showers and Toilets (which you have to pay half a Swiss Franc to use -the last time we paid to use loos was in Morocco)
We first found the “Left Luggage” lockers and checked in our bags allowing us some time alone – parting ways with our luggage for a couple of hours. No love lost there!
We first found the “Left Luggage” lockers and checked in our bags allowing us some time alone – parting ways with our luggage for a couple of hours. No love lost there!
Over the coming days we found the transport system above our expectations – on-time and super-efficient. And ‘efficient’ can only be used to describe the railway Zurich HB Customer Service staff who were able to finalise the gap in our travel plans i.e. Venice to Munich. We couldn’t be more grateful….and…The reason we had problems? The rail line between Brennero/Brenner (northern Italy) and Innsbruck (Austria) HB (Hauptbahnhof – love that word!! Pronounced HORFFT-BARN-HOFF) was closed for maintenance. This meant catching a bus for that leg of the journey, about a 45 minute trip – no problem – our travel arrangements were thankfully still according to plan.
Stepping out of the station there were Two, NO… make that Three big things that hit us:
1. The “COOP” supermarket (pronounced COORRRP) on the banks of Limmat River;
2. The huge Lindt Chocolate sign staring straight at you that you instantly CRAVE Swiss chocolate, and;
3. Posters everywhere of the most humble, greatest sportsman and world champion tennis player – Roger Federer. Locals tell us that when Roger is out in public alone or with his family, he is left to go about his business in peace – no celebrity factor here. How good is that!! No wonder he chooses to live in Switzerland and the Swiss just love him to bits.
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| Roger Federer |
Close by were the church towers of Fraumunster and Grossmunster, plus many other towers that the Swiss are famous for i.e. its many Clock towers, especially the Kirche-St Peter with the largest clock face in Europe.
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| One of the many clock towers in Zurich |
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| Grossmunster |
There were bridges, numerous heritage buildings of the Old Town, Parks, cafes, courtyards and upmarket restaurants along Limmaquai. And trams running in every direction.
Looking out across the picturesque Lake Zurich were mountains in the distance, and even though it was summer, further out we could see the snow-capped Alps.
This city exuded friendliness, charm, wealth and affluence and all without the snootiness.
We’d be back tomorrow to further discover the Lake, River and mountains that surround Zurich using our trusty Zurich card.
We’d be back tomorrow to further discover the Lake, River and mountains that surround Zurich using our trusty Zurich card.
By the days end we found our way to Seebach, got immersed in conversation with Glen and Stephanie over food and beers while watching the sun set over the city from their apartment. Later on watching each other’s photos of Peru and of our travels. Wonderful memories and recollections, and really nice moments in time.
Over the next few days the Zurich HB was our primary landmark. From here we’d take tram rides just to see where they would carry us, set off on train rides to lakeside stations and catch the ferries from the Limmatquai to take us on a hop-on, hop-off journey across the lake.
Over the next few days the Zurich HB was our primary landmark. From here we’d take tram rides just to see where they would carry us, set off on train rides to lakeside stations and catch the ferries from the Limmatquai to take us on a hop-on, hop-off journey across the lake.
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| Sunset at Seebach |
On one of the days when walking along towards our train we heard an Aussie accent – not something we were used to here. Without looking obvious, but pricking up the ears (yes OK, EAVESDROPPING) the person was heard to say “You just cannot imagine the pressure that is on you when you have to represent your country”. I just couldn’t resist I just had to turn around and see who it was.
There he was, a young athletic man flanked by two equally looking athletic young blonde ladies, bragging about “the pressure”. Poor darling! No prizes for guessing but here are a few hints, here goes…He:
- had just competed in the 2012 London Olympics
- was a member of Australian swim team (their worst ever performance in an Olympics)
- was charged and convicted of an assaulting another Australian sportsman….in a drunken mess (if you please!!)
- declared himself a Bankrupt after the court found him guilty of assault, and ordered to pay 180K damages, and let’s not forget,
- the “Gun slinger” photos on social media with another swimmer.
Who is it? – Nick D’Arcy of course (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nick_D'Arcy) “Controversies” topic is worth reading.
But wait – just when you thought it was over - there’s more! The following week he posted photos on social media of himself somewhere in Dubrovnik or thereabouts surrounded by …you guessed it….Blondes!! The Australian Swim Team were supposed to return to Australia following the Olympics albeit tails between their legs. Oh the pressures of representing your country……!! And he was representing Australia. Just shameful!
We have a theory as to why Nick D’Arcy was in Zurich? Here goes….Swiss (secret) Bank Accounts, tax dodges etc. This bankrupt swimmer was probably withdrawing funds for his extended overseas stay after the Olympics. It’s plausible! LOL.
There was just so much to see and even though our time was limited, we made the most of playing the tourist. Our list included:
A train ride up to Mt Uetliberg – “The Top of Zurich” with panoramic views over the city and lake. Uetliberg is 871 mtrs above sea level with an observation and communications tower atop. It is covered in pristine forest with numerous hiking trails and is also hugely popular with extreme mountain bike riders.
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| Observation Tower on Uetliberg |
Endless Boat rides on Lake Zurich, hop-on, hop-off where we discovered antique and bric-a-brac markets, lakeside swimming and recreational spots, Open Air cinema and lakeside restaurants.
Swiss National Museum which houses the largest cultural exhibition and artefacts in the country
Archaeological collection of the University of Zurich
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| Inside the Archeological Museum |
which contains collections of the Mesopotamia, Greek, Egyptian, Roman eras including casts of numerous statues. I just want to make a quick comment here about this museum. On the day we visited, other than the security staff at the door, TJ and I had the whole building to ourselves and were the only people checking out the exhibits. It was a little spooky and a little /creepy at the same time because we were surrounded by these life-size statues - whose eyes seemed to be following us as we walked around. Very surreal, but something you should definitely check it out if you are ever in Zurich.
Paleontological Museum of the University of Zurich
with its collection of fossils from around the world
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| Fossil of a Siberian Baby Mammoth |
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| Entrance to Zoological Museum |
Zoological Museum with over 1500 animal species with interactive displays to view
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| Sharman |
Museum of Medical History with exhibits ranging curious therapies including Sharman, witch doctors & snake oil to modern medicine and medical instruments
Burkliplatz Square near the Bahnhofstrasse
Lindenhop a popular public park and vantage point overlooking Zurich and Limmat River.
Mediaeval architecture of Old Town and Old Quarters below Lindenhop
Admired the Urania Police headquarters building which was once and orphanage and restored several years ago.
We also passed the Frauenbadi on the Limmat River – “Women only” swimming enclosure built in 1888 to protect women bathers from prying eyes. One could not help but look because most of the bathers were topless and lounged around like mermaids on a sunny day.
Another big highlight for us was going to Weggis with Glen and Stefanie travelling at ground hugging speeds on the Autobahn in her “Racing Green” Mini Cooper S. (very cute and sporty) .There Tony and Glen went swimming and TJ assured us the water was warm even though there were snow-capped mountains around us. Glen unfortunately stubbed his toe on a rock coming out of the water - grimacing painfully for most of the night. (A quick call to his (GP) father in Belgium assured him it wasn’t broken). Painkillers to the rescue and a couple of alcoholic drinks!
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| Dining Out Weggis Style (L-R, Liz, Stephanie, Glen, Tony) |
Weggis, about a 45 mins car ride, was beautiful and is a summertime retreat for holidaymakers. This particular night after dinner we all strolled through the town hearing Karaoke echo from a lakeside restaurant (someone singing ABBA !). We were happy to just take it all in, admiring the buildings, lakeside, the fireworks on the distant mountaintop and the atmosphere before another low-flying Formula One ride back to Zurich on the freeway. A 45 mins journey might be an “under-estimation". We think we did 30 mins each way. LOL.
Of course our adventures always take on an amusing or hilarious spin and being in Zurich proved to be no different.
During one of our boat cruises we noticed a large sign advertising a “CASINO” on the lake not far from the open air cinema. On our last night we decided to dress up, catch a bus from Limmatquai to the Casino and spin a few lucky numbers on the Roulette tables. It was smiles all the way. There seemed to be so many people going our way. That was a good sign – or so we thought.
When we arrived at the Casino, the doors were closed. Maybe we had arrived a little early before opening time….and all those other people going our way??...They were heading to the Open Air cinema. After walking around the complex a young man appeared from the restaurant inside. When asked about the Casino – he laughed! He told us that the Casino is “only” in name and NOT a Roulette-wheeling, card-shuffling, keno-drawing, slot-machining, Pokie-driven, Sic-Bo-ing Casino. It was only a restaurant with the Casino Bling. LOL, LOL. All dressed up and No where to Go. Haha! So to drown our sorrows we headed back into the city and noshed up on Cocktails….and we looked the part too ….all dressed up!!
And while on the subject of ‘Dressed Up’ we witnessed a curious site in the river which involved a couple of hundred swimmers with “Undressed” novelty floaties. We weren’t sure of the theme of this event but it looked like it wasn’t very challenging and the swimmers were having a good time and a good laugh. We figured this was the real reason Nick D’Arcy was visiting Zurich. It was up to his speed and a probably a participant in the event. LOL.
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Pity we had to leave Zurich – this city is a 'must see and do' on anyone’s travel agenda. I have just so many beautiful photos of places we visited that there are just too many to upload on this blog.
But in the morning it’s an early start to catch the 7am Trenitalia to Milan then catch a connector to Rome, ETA 2.45pm. Hopefully there aren’t any surprises.
Until Roma, Arrivederci !
Liz and Tony
PS. Nick we forgive you but in future don't be such a TOSSER !!
PS. Nick we forgive you but in future don't be such a TOSSER !!
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| Who's a bad boy ? - needs no explanation ! |
