Tuesday, July 31, 2012

SPAIN: San Sebastian


SAN SEBASTIAN
Location:  Bay of Biscay, Northern Spain
Language: Basque/Spanish
Population:  (2011) approx 186,500 
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San Sebastian would have to be one of the most picturesque places we’ve visited so far and many of the streets in the old part of the city are pedestrian malls giving way to the narrow streets, cafes,  bakeries, tapas bars and of course the souvenir shops.  We were to find out over the next few days that it offered so much more than that but will only pass on the boring info for  a little while before getting into the “Real” description of San Sebastian.


Alameda Boulevard, Donastia
Taking around 5 hours on the RENFE train we arrived at Estacion del Norte station where the first thing you notice is the impressive metal roof which had been designed by Gustave Eiffel, one and the same designer of the Eiffel Tower.  It was in stark contrast to the buildings that surrounded it which were a different style to that again in the southern part of Spain. Another thing that stood out for us and we were left to wonder, was that the language was so different to what we were getting so used to hearing in Spain.  Even on the slow approach into the station the signs showed “Donastia” but that wasn’t on our train tickets, and the train was going no further – it was the end of the line.  We were left wondering if we had missed something, ie napped for too long or where we on the right train ??? 
Donastia Station
From somewhere in the back of our minds we recalled something about the Basque Separatist group (ETA) and their quest for independence from Spain and still lingering in the very heart of the population in this part of Spain, Navarre.   New York Times Article: Basque Separatists Halt Campaign of Violence

We had arrived in the heart of the Basque region and Tony was still wearing his Spain hat in celebration of their win in the Euro 2012 Soccer cup final.  Everything written around us was in this alien language and it was a little daunting to say the least.  We were to find out over the coming days that Spanish is also spoken in the north region – and well ……"accepted".  I will say no more about this, but just the looks that Tony was getting when he was wearing that hat made him pack it away very quickly into the depths of his luggage – not to be seen AGAIN.   It left him wondering if the Peru hat was OK to wear though!!   
Maria Christina Bridge, Donastia
But one thing that we did recognise and in language we could understand was Hotel Terminus and it was right beside the train station. It also happened to be painted in the same colour as the train station, a rusty red with cream trims. We were thinking about the trains roaring through in the middle of the night but for us the thought of not having to struggle with baggage far outweighed the train sounds during the night. And it was only 50 mtrs from the station, a short walk to the Centro of San Sebastian, short walk to the 2 beautiful beaches of Playa de la Concha and Playa de la Zurriola, and to Parte Vieja, the old City.  We didn’t realise at the time the "Parte" must have been misspelt many many years ago and should be written as PARTY. 
Playa de la Concha
We were told that Donastia had been at the heart of many wars and conflicts throughout the centuries which resulted in 11 different fires.  Also because of these fires there is no longer any recorded history about the Basque language which is thought to have Medieval origins.  These fires ripped through the city which destroyed much of its history and buildings and in some way accounts for why the buildings are so different ...and beautiful. 

Chlorinate pools on the beach
The city and beaches are separated by the Urumea River, a crystal clear tidal river that has 7 bridges crossing at various points and each time we crossed any of those bridges we were amazed to see huge schools of fish, probably some sort of mullet about 30-50 cms each in size - just waiting to be caught.  The beaches draw crowds larger than Surfers Paradise.  And they allow topless and nude sun bathing, yes, can you believe it – in the city centre !!  When you have closed your mouth you might also be interested to know that one of the beaches is a well known surfing beach in this part of Spain.  We had to laugh though – there were fresh water/chlorinated pools actually on the beachside –perhaps for those fussy folks who don’t like sand and salt water.  Perhaps they should just stay at home and take a bath instead!!!

San Sebastian put on the weather for us so TJ decided to go for a swim in Bay of Biscay.  My only description was that he put on a brave face because just looking across the water the swimmers didn’t stay in for too long and as for the surfers, well they had wet suits on.  So the message was loud and clear that the water was just above “FREEZING”.

Escultura Peine del Viento (Wind Combs)
Breather Holes near the
Wind Combs
We took our usual double decker bus rides to see the sites and in addition hired a couple of bicycles back to the places we thought were of real interest such as the Escultura Peine del Viento (Wind Comb sculptures) at the base of Mount Igeldo, the beaches of course, and we crossed bridges such as the Puento Maria Christina, Puento Santa Catalina and Puento del Zurriola. Then followed the river as far as we could.  What was interesting about the Wind Comb was that during high seas, blow holes would send water and wind rushing through holes like geisers, and even though the seas were fairly calm it didn't stop curious folks from getting the feel of the gushing wind through the blowholes (and around their blow holes). 

In our travels by chance we also found the "Petit" Casino Kursaal when looking for the famous cafes, bars and restaurants which serve Pintxos (tapas).  The Donastia casino must be the loneliest we've ever encountered because there are only 2 roulette tables, about 4 blackjack tables and around 30 poker machines.  The place was empty and nothing seemed to be happening until Tony and I walked in and only then did the ball start rolling.  But before that, when we entered the upstairs foyer our Passport details were recorded for good measure.  Must have come as a shock to them when we changed over only $40 and walked out half an hour later none the wiser or richer.  They must have thought we were a couple of high rollers because we were all dressed up for the occasion.

Maria Christina Bridge
YES  !!! Live State of Origin
We’d wandered around over the few days we were in San Sebastian knowing that the State of Origin finals were to be played on Wednesday 4th July and we were keen to find a venue with a Live telecast starting at 11am (Brisbane time).  We’d spotted an Irish Pub we were certain would be showing the game.  WRONG !! What a huge disappointment - when we got around there that they didn’t even have SKY channel.  So our next best shot was to race over the river... to the Old City... a good 15 minute sprint... and find if one of the many little Pintxos Bars had SKY and was showing the game. 

Sure enough – there it was – and only about 15 minutes of the game left.  But with the score very close it was the best part of the action. 

The next big disappointment was there were so many Australians in that little bar that you couldn’t even throw a football in. 

True Blues supporters - they even
have Blue luggage
I just stood back and watched while Tony and some of his new found friends – mainly Blues supporters, peered through the glass window front giving me  and some other girls running commentary of who scored, who got a kick and score updates.  And with only a short time left in the game, the beer  was passed from inside the bar by those who were lucky enough to be able to watch the TV inside that little Pintxo Bar.  Result:  QLD - 21,  NSW - 20.  Field goal kicked by Cooper Kronk to win the game for QLD. 
On our last day in San Sebastian we woke up to rain.  The beach crowds had disappeared but the surfers were out enjoying the waves, this time without having to dodge the swimmers. 
 
We made the most of our last hours here enjoying a nice coffee and croissant at one of the little cafes at the edge of the river.   
Old City streets
We both agreed that we know why this once fortress city of Donastia, only 40 kms from the border of France, is reknown as the place for a European summer vacation.  It's a beautiful city, the people are friendly and welcoming (as long as you don't wear a "Spain" cap), the Pintxos are a gastronomical treat, the Sangrias and beer and food is cheap.  And if you want a holiday outside of Australia, love your food and want to be surrounded by other Aussies, particularly in June/July, this is the place for you....
With Pamplona already covered in earlier blogs, the next episode of Tony and Liz's Travel Adventures will be about Lisbon, Portugal.
Byeeeee...
Liz and Tony
Night life in Donastia









Tuesday, July 17, 2012

SPAIN: Madrid


Madrid, Spain
(3rd largest city in Europe)

Population:Madrid City:  3.3 million
Population including Metropolitan area:  6.2 million
Mtrs above sea Level:  667 mtrs
The overnight train trip on the Elipsos Trenhotel from Gare Austerlitz Paris was a lot more comfortable than we’d experienced on the Amtrak in the USA because of the additional room and larger “couches”.  It was also perhaps the most well behaved group of train travellers we’ve come across since the Chicago to New Orleans trek way back when i.e. no loud conversations, no pizza orders, and no mobile phone conversations detailing peoples love lives, and we were given comfort packages containing eye masks, toothpaste and brush, ear plugs, blanket and pillow .

Renfe Elipsos Trenhotel
We could just kick back and enjoy the ride.  Only thing missing was that we couldn’t see any of the alpine scenery on the southern border of France and Spain.  What we did see on the approach into Madrid was lots of graffiti (mainly protest messages about the Euro bailout), modern skyscraper towers, low-rise brick apartment buildings as far as you could see, and Spanish flags flying from most of them. 

High Rise near Charmartin Station, Central Madrid


Spain was about to play Portugal in the semi-finals of the Euro 2012 soccer.  It was an exciting time to be in Spain and you could just about feel it. 

That wasn’t all we could feel.  A heatwave was predicted for the Madrid region with temperatures to rise to 42 degrees and remain that way for at least 3 days.  At 10.am it was already 28 degrees.  We were fairly used to heat and humidity but with Madrid being the highest capital above sea level in Europe and no humidity we could feel the effects straight away.  So the fluid intake was essential, as was the need for Tony to try some new Spanish Cervezas.

Like most of our destinations even though the research is thorough there is usually some minute detail that gets lost in translation – literally.  Google Translate is one of the best pieces of techno ever and we’ve used it a lot for various things including just translating signs we see, a name, things that take our interest in pamphlets etc.    

We got to Charmartin Estacion central Madrid around 9.30am and after looking, checking and rechecking at the Metro and RENFRE lines for our next destination we couldn’t find El Pozo anywhere.  We were starting to panic!  The name of the Madrid suburb was called “The Well” and according to our instructions we needed to change at Atocha Estacion (this one was on the map), then about 3 train stations to “The Well”. 

It became a case of “Help me Information“ and it turns out the The Well translates to….El Pozo.  And there it was we could catch either the C2 or C7 Metro line.  Just shows how good Google Translate actually is.

El Pozo was a great location, close to Cervacarias, supermacados, little cafes and as we finally found out – the train station.  There were so many things to see and do in Madrid and what better way to tackle it and start straight away. The first stop The Prado Museum, free entry between 6-8pm, works of art on display by some of the most famous artists of all time, Picaso, Goya, Raphael.

Much of it quite dark, religious and intense, a reflection of the times these works were painted and public hangings, witchery and the like were in some way the norm.  Then over to the Museo Reina Sofia, also free entry between 6-9pm, with modern contemporary art – more to our enjoyment. 
That was a pretty good intro for day 1 and we were to find that much like the artwork, Madrid had retained much of its architecture the same way i.e. a mix of the old and new.  

An Aussie spotted in the El Tres
Restaurant/Bar, Madrid
watching the semi final of the Euro 2012
 Day 1 also was marked with Spain beating Portugal in a penalty shoot out in extra time.  Spain won and due to play final Sunday night against Italy.

The next day we started with the real stuff and that is the double Decker “Hop-On, Hop-Off” buses which run between 9am to 8pm each day (and a night tour at 11pm) to get to know the attractions and sites, then make our own way around using public transport.  We found we could get a 10 trip train pass for around 9 Euros and that would last us for the 5 days in Madrid.  But we also found a public transport Night bus from Plaza de Cibeles that would take us into the heart of El Pozo any time after midnight.  Malinka our airbnb hostess kindly gave us some free tickets to see a Flamenco which would start at 10pm at the Parque del Retiro, a 130 hectare park in the centre of Madrid.  Just beautiful with its manicured gardens and fountains throughout and each promenade individually named. 



Parque del Retiro
Having visited the park during the day, that night we would shortcut (sprint) through after the flamenco to catch the “Madrid by Night” tour which started at 11.00pm. We cut it fine to get there on time. but it was worth it. 
 
Plaza de Cibeles
We didn’t feel for our safety at all because at this time of year with the sun was setting at 10.30pm families stay out late.  Actually we found out it is customary for Spaniards to stay up, and out, until all hours or early into the morning.  And something we found common in all parts of Spain so far.  The next photo was taken of one of the biggest streets, Gran Via in Madrid, shows revellers at 12.30am.
After sitting back on the night bus tour around Madrid and back to the Prado Museum, the start point of the tour, we took a slow stroll down to Plaza de Cibeles to catch the Night bus.

Hanging around a little while waiting, and waiting for the No. 10 bus out of town, we found out from one of the bus service guys that the last bus left at midnight.  It was 12.40am by this time.  One could be forgiven if we looked like we had consumed huge quantities of drugs because of our sudden wide eyes, sudden shuffling of feet and looking/turning in every direction, mind buzzing and thinking "What should we do next".  But this guy was pointing to the other side of this huge roundabout for some reason and with gesturing ushered us over to that direction.  Turns out the bus we were to catch was right, but after midnight it leaves from another point in the Plaza and has a BIG “N” (for night) on the front of it.  What a huge relief!!  We got back to El Pozo in one piece, laughing about what could have been.  Some of the laughing was actually about some of the revellers on the bus who were so pissed and half asleep we wondered if they had missed their bus stop. 

Museo del Jamon
Malinka had told us about the Museo del Jamon, translated to the Ham Museum and there are 6 scattered throughout Madrid.  Strange you would think to have a “Ham” museum.  Check out the hanging hams. 

The name is a great marketing tool to get you in the door and enjoy their tasty morsels of ham rolls, freshly made either plain, of with cheese, lettuce, maybe tomato, and served with a drink of your choice, including beer, wine or soft drink, for the princely sum of 1 Euro.  That is not a typo – I repeat - 1 Euro (about ($1.20).  This is sounding very much like Tony’s blog but is unbelievable.  I managed 1, lost count of how many Tony had but I know he enjoyed all 4 of his, along with the complementary dish of marinated olives.  The Museo del Jamon will be on our list of 'must-do' places to visit when we return to Madrid for a 6 hour stop-over on our way from Lisbon to Granada.  Yum!!

Now, just getting back to the Double Decker bus tour.  When it came to buying the tickets, the lady said that many roads would be closed from 4pm the following afternoon because of celebrations for the GUY PARADE.  We didn’t think that would be a problem at all.  Besides during most of our trip we’ve come to enjoy being spontaneously caught up in street parades or in traffic jams because of marches, rallies, protests e.g. New Orleans, Washington, Boston.  We were used to them, what’s one more.  I’m thinking – Guy Parade – yes, fireworks, crackers, sparklers – a Guy Fawkes Night in Madrid that should be fun!!  It wasn’t until the following afternoon and we are back where we bought the bus tickets so I asked that lady – “Can you tell me what the Guy Parade celebrations are about?”  She said, in her quite strong Spanish accent – “You know, Guy celebrations”.  So I sort of agreed not really knowing until later in the day - when we saw the decorations  and flags for the celebrations.  It was something again that was very lost in translation.  And if you say it fast enough, over and over - Guy Parade, Guy Parade, Guy Parade  - it was not a Guy Parade but it was the GAY PRIDE celebration.  Geez, did I feel like an idiot!! That poor girl must have wondered which rock I had been living under - how naive!!!
http://www.madridemotion.com/en/come-to-madrid-to-celebrate-the-gay-pride-2012/

Over the following days we had opportunity to see many sites including the Real Jardin Botanico where stall holders set up selling rare and antique books, and the Real Madrid Soccer Stadium, very topical and an even bigger attraction with the pending finals to be played in Kiev on the Sunday night.  


Now that the Gay Pride march was over and streets opened up again, we ventured into some of the older parts of the city, narrow streets, cast iron balconies, flower boxes, huge wooden doors, much like some of the Spanish influence we’d seen throughout Peru.
We even considered going into the Madrid Casino until we saw the sign which said: Dress Code “Gentlemen must wear a suit coat and tie  The suit coat or tie was just something Tony had NOT packed for this very occasion.  So we gave that a miss. 

Always a highlight of any new place for us on our travels is a visit to the local supermarket.  Food is so cheap, so are the beers, wines and spirits.  For example, baguettes/French sticks (a diet staple) is sold for anywhere between 0.5 – 1 euro each.  Same with cheese, biscuits, fruit and vegetables – if taxed it is very low, and alcohol is not taxed at all – Australia we are getting ripped off!!  In preparation for the Euro 2012 finals Tony bought a 6 pack of Estrella Galicia beer $3.94 and a bottle of Rose for $1.20.  Not even Dan Murphy’s sells wine for as low as that!  A couple of days before we bought a 2 litre bottle of Sangria for about 1.50.  It is cheaper to drink alcohol than it is soft drink/Coco Cola. 

On another one of our adventures we were curious about where these people were coming from carrying shopping bags and pulling trolleys.  We discovered a Farmers market just like the one in Nanterre Ville that sold everything from fruit, veges, deli food, hardware, clothing and other accessories.  We couldn’t believe the prices.  3kg of plums for 1 euro and Olives 1.99 euro for 1kg. We know that country was on the brink but this was almost giving produce away – and at that price we couldn't resist buying. 
Markets at El Pozo
That night the Euro 2012 Final between Spain and Italy was being played.  Even Tony was excited about the game that he bought himself a Spain cap (as if the Peru cap wasn’t enough to draw attention to himself being mistaken as Spanish speaking).  We stayed in, whilst the rest of the household headed into Plaza de Cibeles, set up earlier in the day with a huge stage, big screens and the gardens and fountains barricaded.  We had an early start that next morning at 6.30am to catch a train to San Sebastian where we would be for 4 days before heading down to Pamplona for the Running of the Bulls.  There was just as much excitement in the El Pozo neighbourhood as would have been at Plaza de Cibeles, or even in the stadium where the game was being played.  Each time Spain scored a goal you could hear cheers, yells and fireworks.  I swear that I even heard what sounded like repeated firing of an Uzi each time Spain scored and won the Euro Cup 2012, making it 3 Euro cups in succession….. 

Atocha Regional Line
Early that next morning on our way to the station we passed revellers just coming home from celebrating Spain’s win - they looked a mess.   Espano los Heroes, 4 – Nil.  We were also commuting with the workers just on the peak hour train and I witnessed something I had previously seen on the flight from Lima to Miami and that was seeing people making a sign of the cross and kissing a crucifix.  This time it was as we were arriving into Atocha station, Madrid.  Then I thought….there had been subway bombings a couple of years ago.  Later we found out it was Atocha, the biggest commuter station for regional and metro stations in the city. 



San Sebastian sounded appealing - Basque country by the beach on the Bay of Biscay.  Looking forward to that and the tapas (pinxtos).  Hope we can find somewhere to watch the final State of Origin game.  Don’t like the chances !!

Off for the next adventure….or siesta, whichever comes first.

Liz and Tony

Prado Museum
View over Madrid from El Pozo

Sunday, July 15, 2012

SPAIN: Running of the BULLS - Pamplona Madness: Day 3 at El Torros Arena

Some more Google News reports about the San Fermin Festival - http://www.expatica.com/es/news/spanish-news/breakaway-bull-causes-havoc-in-pamplona-festival_236931.html
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Pamplona MADNESS: Day 3. At the El Torros Arena

We had no idea what to expect, but it was just on sunrise when we walked into the Old City, and although buses were running on a 24hr schedule we needed a boost to wake us up – the quick coffee hadn’t kicked in. On the way were people sleeping everywhere in parks, camped in cars (with the engine and lights on, we could still hear music – but this time coming from a Rave party at the Fair Ground. Thank God, the subliminal didn’t pick up on these tunes !!

As we walked into the city the streets were filled with thousands of people, drinks in hand, still partying from the night before. It was CRAZY !! (still).
Still Partying Day 3 on sunrise
We made our way to the Arena, got some tickets from a scalper (his face engrained in Sheryle’s memory forever), but got into the Arena, got the best seats with the best views of the gates and one of the big screen TVs. Here we could watch the Runners limbering up, under police control and vetting, and the release of the bulls at The Encierro (the first 280 metres up a steep slope) at 8am. 
Gates released at 8am
Queue waiting to buy Arena tickets at 5.30am
As the time drew on the Del Torros arena filled to capacity about 10-15 thousand could have been more with standing room only. And the pre-Bull entertainment was – wait for it – a Band, trumpets, drums and all playing traditional Spanish songs. 

Pre-show entertainment
Paramedics also get a huge cheer as they position themselves around the arena to be ready to treat the carnage (injuries).And you guessed it Sheryle and I were bouncing around to the beat throwing in the Ole’s and cheers in all the right places (hmmm subliminal).That was scary and we were sober !!

Scanning around the crowd was so funny because there were obviously festival goers who hadn’t sobered up / or had a sleep, some still had their wine/sangria soaked stained shirts on from Friday, (this is when you shouldn’t wear your Aussie T-shirts - shame, shame, shame) trying to get Mexican waves going and just having a good harmless time. 

About 7.45am they fired up the big screens and we could see the activity.
Runners waiting for the gates
 to open and bulls to charge

First through were a number of runners who were only in it for the running practice only – no bulls involved.

They were the first to run into the stadium, to the Boos and jeers and pelting of empty plastic bottles and wine cups, with the spectators shouting something translated similar to “Cowards” or “Sons of Bitches”

Then a couple of minutes later you could tell the fair-dinkum runners coming into the arena – just the looks on their faces and that they kept looking behind them was enough to say they were genuine, and genuinely frightened.  

Then just when we thought there was a lull, all of a sudden hundreds of runners entered (read that as - scrambled over each other, falling, pushing each other out of the way and skidding) followed by around a dozen huge bulls.  

First of the hundreds of runners into the Arena
Which I should mention here - the pre-show entertainment is like the preliminary introductions of the State of Origin. On the big screens each Bull is pictured with his name, the year they were born, and what they weighed. One of the bulls, Carnelito (could that be translated as "little CARNAGE") weighed in at 640 kg and reminded me of Glen Lazarus – he would have weighed close to that!!  




LITTLE CARNAGE
But fancy having something of that size charging after you and, imagine the fear and adrenalin rush.   
 
Bulls into the Arena after the runners
With all the runners in the stadium, the bulls followed and were directed into corrals. They had done their bit for the day. Next was the real action.


With all the hundreds of runners in the arena younger smaller feisty bulls were let upon them, these bulls seemed to be overawed by the scene and mass movement of all the runners. As Tony described it – it was like a parting of the sea. 

The runners just charged to the sides of the arena like in some fluid motion all following each other, and fear on their faces. The bull took centre stage looking for a victim, or the closest person. Because there was so many people in there they had no where to go, and the gates had been locked so they couldn’t get out. It was CHAOS !!! Some may consider this the chance for the bulls to get their revenge with so many targets, they couldn’t really miss, collecting someone.  

After a while, still pumped up on adrenalin, some of the runners started to taunt the bulls so they would charge at them. They pulled their tails, smacked them on the rump and did anything they could to get the bulls to target them. At one point we even saw a guy hurdle over a bull. But in all you can see exactly why there are injuries because these people put themselves into that situation, notwithstanding the fact that all the bulls’ horns are corked/covered as some form of protection. Given the sheer size of the horns I don’t think it mattered much. 

Parting of the seas
 - look at the number of runners
 on the inside edge of the ring


Ouchhh that hurt
One guy that stood out had been chasing the bull around when it did actually turn and charge at him. He was taken over the horns and across the bulls back. He hit the ground pretty hard and staggered away with his back turned to the bull. Bad move!! The bull charged at him again from behind and he went flying into the air a second time. Others were being trampled upon and if it wasn’t by the bull it was by the people trying to get away from the ferocious bull. Just when the runners thought that was it –they released another younger bull – just as, or more feisty than the last. The crowd were starting to tire, but fresh bulls were brought out about every 10-15 mins.

All this and it was only around 9.30am. and the spectacle was starting to wind down. We were ready to head back have a coffee and a catch up snooze. Waking up later in the day it was like it was a dream. Surely it wasn’t real. It was real and it was real crazy!!!

The next afternoon Sheryle and Ulee would be heading back to Madrid then off for the rest of their 2 month Europe holiday. Safe travels Aussies. We wish you well and might see you back in Oz.  
For us, we still had another day in Pamplona and decided to take in some sights that we hadn’t in the previous days. We caught a couple of local buses, the 3, 14 and 21 and ventured into other parts of the city including the park where the fireworks are set off each night.
At 3.00pm the crowds were already getting their vantage points. I’d be happy just to see them from our window, because no matter what time of day it was the size of the spectators and festival goers just didn’t reduce. We discovered some more food courts where they sold Paella, BBq’d rabbits, pork spare ribs, suckling pigs, indescribable meats and a variety of chorizo that we never see in Oz. 
We even contemplated going to the arena again the next day, but thought against that, we thought how can you better that experience. But we made our mark instead on one of the fences that lead the bulls up to the arena, on who we thought were the real winners on the day. 

Pamplona is one place that we will never forget, not forget the partying, the amounts of alcohol that people consume, the Spanish love of the San Fermin Festival, the number of Aussies who go there and run with the bulls. 

We will not forget the Red and White outfits and the “must have” Panuelo, the music and dancing, the fun things going on around us. I just wish there was one thing we could forget – the horrible smell of urine that permeates through the town because people, both males and females, are too drunk and just unload anywhere, or they can’t be bothered using a loo.  In having said that there were an abundance of Portable WCs placed everywhere throughout the city.  And the colour they were painted?  Gotta keep with the colour theme of the festival – Red and White !!

Next stop Lisbon on a RENFE Trenhotel overnight sleeper from Pamplona via San Sebastian. Depart Pamplona at 7.30pm arrive Lisbon at 10.30am.

During the changeover at San Sebastian we talked to 2 Aussie guys who ran the very day we were at the arena. They said it was the fastest 800 mtrs they had even run in their life. And as for going into the arena ??, not really, the 800 mtr run alone, was frightening enough. Something they were very honest about and said they would NEVER do again either.  But geez – isn't it a great story to tell the folks back home. These guys might even be in one of my photos. 
Still partying Day 4

The adventure continues…… (and festivities in Pamplona continues without us) 

Liz and Tony


Sorry Mate - Wrong Party
This is San Fermin
 - NOT the Mardi Gras