SPAIN: San Sebastian

SAN SEBASTIAN

Location:  Bay of Biscay, Northern Spain
Language: Basque/Spanish
Population:  (2011) approx 186,500 

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San Sebastian would have to be one of the most picturesque places we’ve visited so far and many of the streets in the old part of the city are pedestrian malls giving way to the narrow streets, cafes,  bakeries, tapas bars and of course the souvenir shops.  We were to find out over the next few days that it offered so much more than that but will only pass on the boring info for  a little while before getting into the “Real” description of San Sebastian.

Alameda Boulevard, Donastia

Taking around 5 hours on the RENFE train we arrived at Estacion del Norte station where the first thing you notice is the impressive metal roof which had been designed by Gustave Eiffel, one and the same designer of the Eiffel Tower.  It was in stark contrast to the buildings that surrounded it which were a different style to that again in the southern part of Spain. Another thing that stood out for us and we were left to wonder, was that the language was so different to what we were getting so used to hearing in Spain.  Even on the slow approach into the station the signs showed “Donastia” but that wasn’t on our train tickets, and the train was going no further – it was the end of the line.  We were left wondering if we had missed something, ie napped for too long or where we on the right train ??? 

Donastia Station

From somewhere in the back of our minds we recalled something about the Basque Separatist group (ETA) and their quest for independence from Spain and still lingering in the very heart of the population in this part of Spain, Navarre.   New York Times Article: Basque Separatists Halt Campaign of Violence

We had arrived in the heart of the Basque region and Tony was still wearing his Spain hat in celebration of their win in the Euro 2012 Soccer cup final.  Everything written around us was in this alien language and it was a little daunting to say the least.  We were to find out over the coming days that Spanish is also spoken in the north region – and well ……"accepted".  I will say no more about this, but just the looks that Tony was getting when he was wearing that hat made him pack it away very quickly into the depths of his luggage – not to be seen AGAIN.   It left him wondering if the Peru hat was OK to wear though!!   

Maria Christina Bridge, Donastia

But one thing that we did recognise and in language we could understand was Hotel Terminus and it was right beside the train station. It also happened to be painted in the same colour as the train station, a rusty red with cream trims. We were thinking about the trains roaring through in the middle of the night but for us the thought of not having to struggle with baggage far outweighed the train sounds during the night. And it was only 50 mtrs from the station, a short walk to the Centro of San Sebastian, short walk to the 2 beautiful beaches of Playa de la Concha and Playa de la Zurriola, and to Parte Vieja, the old City.  We didn’t realise at the time the "Parte" must have been misspelt many many years ago and should be written as PARTY. 

Playa de la Concha

We were told that Donastia had been at the heart of many wars and conflicts throughout the centuries which resulted in 11 different fires.  Also because of these fires there is no longer any recorded history about the Basque language which is thought to have Medieval origins.  These fires ripped through the city which destroyed much of its history and buildings and in some way accounts for why the buildings are so different ...and beautiful. 

Chlorinate pools on the beach

The city and beaches are separated by the Urumea River, a crystal clear tidal river that has 7 bridges crossing at various points and each time we crossed any of those bridges we were amazed to see huge schools of fish, probably some sort of mullet about 30-50 cms each in size - just waiting to be caught.  The beaches draw crowds larger than Surfers Paradise.  And they allow topless and nude sun bathing, yes, can you believe it – in the city centre !!  When you have closed your mouth you might also be interested to know that one of the beaches is a well known surfing beach in this part of Spain.  We had to laugh though – there were fresh water/chlorinated pools actually on the beachside –perhaps for those fussy folks who don’t like sand and salt water.  Perhaps they should just stay at home and take a bath instead!!!

San Sebastian put on the weather for us so TJ decided to go for a swim in Bay of Biscay.  My only description was that he put on a brave face because just looking across the water the swimmers didn’t stay in for too long and as for the surfers, well they had wet suits on.  So the message was loud and clear that the water was just above “FREEZING”.

Escultura Peine del Viento (Wind Combs)

Breather Holes near the
Wind Combs

We took our usual double decker bus rides to see the sites and in addition hired a couple of bicycles back to the places we thought were of real interest such as the Escultura Peine del Viento (Wind Comb sculptures) at the base of Mount Igeldo, the beaches of course, and we crossed bridges such as the Puento Maria Christina, Puento Santa Catalina and Puento del Zurriola. Then followed the river as far as we could.  What was interesting about the Wind Comb was that during high seas, blow holes would send water and wind rushing through holes like geisers, and even though the seas were fairly calm it didn't stop curious folks from getting the feel of the gushing wind through the blowholes (and around their blow holes). 

In our travels by chance we also found the "Petit" Casino Kursaal when looking for the famous cafes, bars and restaurants which serve Pintxos (tapas).  The Donastia casino must be the loneliest we've ever encountered because there are only 2 roulette tables, about 4 blackjack tables and around 30 poker machines.  The place was empty and nothing seemed to be happening until Tony and I walked in and only then did the ball start rolling.  But before that, when we entered the upstairs foyer our Passport details were recorded for good measure.  Must have come as a shock to them when we changed over only $40 and walked out half an hour later none the wiser or richer.  They must have thought we were a couple of high rollers because we were all dressed up for the occasion.

Maria Christina Bridge

YES  !!! Live State of Origin

We’d wandered around over the few days we were in San Sebastian knowing that the State of Origin finals were to be played on Wednesday 4^th July and we were keen to find a venue with a Live telecast starting at 11am (Brisbane time).  We’d spotted an Irish Pub we were certain would be showing the game.  WRONG !! What a huge disappointment - when we got around there that they didn’t even have SKY channel.  So our next best shot was to race over the river... to the Old City... a good 15 minute sprint... and find if one of the many little Pintxos Bars had SKY and was showing the game. 

Sure enough – there it was – and only about 15 minutes of the game left.  But with the score very close it was the best part of the action. 

The next big disappointment was there were so many Australians in that little bar that you couldn’t even throw a football in. 

True Blues supporters - they even
have Blue luggage

I just stood back and watched while Tony and some of his new found friends – mainly Blues supporters, peered through the glass window front giving me  and some other girls running commentary of who scored, who got a kick and score updates.  And with only a short time left in the game, the beer  was passed from inside the bar by those who were lucky enough to be able to watch the TV inside that little Pintxo Bar.  Result:  QLD - 21,  NSW - 20.  Field goal kicked by Cooper Kronk to win the game for QLD. 

On our last day in San Sebastian we woke up to rain.  The beach crowds had disappeared but the surfers were out enjoying the waves, this time without having to dodge the swimmers. 

 

We made the most of our last hours here enjoying a nice coffee and croissant at one of the little cafes at the edge of the river.   

Old City streets

We both agreed that we know why this once fortress city of Donastia, only 40 kms from the border of France, is reknown as the place for a European summer vacation.  It's a beautiful city, the people are friendly and welcoming (as long as you don't wear a "Spain" cap), the Pintxos are a gastronomical treat, the Sangrias and beer and food is cheap.  And if you want a holiday outside of Australia, love your food and want to be surrounded by other Aussies, particularly in June/July, this is the place for you....

With Pamplona already covered in earlier blogs, the next episode of Tony and Liz's Travel Adventures will be about Lisbon, Portugal.

Byeeeee...

Liz and Tony

Night life in Donastia